The bridge over the Spey

A good spot for lunch

Beachfront at Portgordon, which reminds of strongly of the southern California coast.

Golf courses all around

My California-bred loathing of hold courses has been mitigated by the sense that if ever a golf course could be said to have a natural environment it would be here. They definitely don't have to water!

Cullen Skink Soup

Rytis recommended I try this local specialty and he wasn't wrong. Smoked haddock, potatoes, and cream, from the Crannock Hotel.

Leap of faith

I knew from the map that the path continued to the campground, so I decided to take it. Not the smartest move I've made but the beach was so pretty. A fully loaded bike is just not the thing to bring along for a hike up and down steep stony hills, some with steep steps on narrow high cliff edges. Both the bike and I survived but there were a couple of times the bike and panniers needed to be ported separately. I was very glad to get to the campground.

Wandering off track

Then I took a pleasant path that led to broad and sandy Sunnyside Beach. I could not resist taking the slightly narrower path down to the water though it required getting off and walking the bike.

Findlater Castle

The ruined castle was built in the 1400s and abandoned in the 1600s. It was certainly a dramatic setting.

Waving grain

Fields outside Portsoy.

I could live here

Near Brangan

Whitehills

The Red Well

The Romans built this over the iron rich spring water and it also marked the spring and autumn equinox. On those two days it illuminates brilliantly at sunrise. It has been carefully maintained but it is the original Roman structure.

Sunset at Banff, low tide

Queen of the hill

This is the view from the little mountain I climbed with Rytis yesterday.

Nice beach on a mediocre day

If the sun were out this would be a stunning scene. But the grey sky accentuates the dreariness of the holiday caravans stacked up in a parking lot that calls itself a campground. I look forward to heading to the much emptier west coast in a couple of days.

Duff House

Banff has a gorgeous beach and this.

Random castles

They're everywhere!

Outside Maureen

Things I like

Here's a list of items that work exactly as they should and that I'd bring on my next trip:
1. Arkel GT-54 panniers
2. Thermarest Deer Camp mattress
3. DiNotte 200L front and tail lights
4. Garmin 60cx GPS unit
5. Patagonia wick dry shirts
6. Diadora touring shoes

The jury is still out on other equipment but the list of stuff I dislike or would leave behind next time will follow in a while.

What I like about the beach

No thanks

You knew this was coming

My first taste of black pudding

At Beautiful Mountain in Aberdeen.

They must feel protective

... after the old zebra got hit by the bus.

What a bush!

Scottish gardens

People do love their flowers here.

Relaxing in Hazlehead Park

Waking up after a map in the sun.

Who thought this up?

Macaroni and cheese in a pastry crust.

In sight of Aberdeen

Morning in Findon

Just enough cloud cover to make good biking weather and with a head start from Alistair who dropped me off on a nice patch of coast, soreness much diminished and strength returned, this is all the makings of a perfect day.

Dead Things

Strange collection of images today, gathered from my walk through the beach in the nature preserve at St. Cyrus. They were all so elegant and eerie that they could easily be read as omens rather than accidents...

What was wrong with my bike...

As I mentioned, my bike is finally functional, but it still needs a new derailleur (yes, another new derailleur, since the one on my bike is for seven gears instead of eight, and I still get a chain rub in the highest gears). I asked this mechanic if I could video his explanation of the problem, and he said exactly what three previous mechanics said. What I can't believe is that a company with the reputation of Bike Friday would rig such a catch-me-fuck-me front shifting solution, where the cable was torqued wrong against the derailleur from the get-go. What were they thinking? A couple hundred pounds and dozens of lost hours -- Bike Friday, are you listening? The new chain ring is steel -- heavier to be sure, but at least it doesn't bend every time I fold it and pack it.

The haar rolling in at St Cyrus beach

I was rescued from sleeping damp once again by my new friends Alistair and Maureen, who responded to my request to pitch a tent with a counter offer of first tea, then a warm dry bed to sleep in, and then an invitation to stay another day to explore the nearby nature reserve.

A little gem of a church in Lunen

Rosehill

New crank set. And a fantastic sunny day.

Sugar and steel

My quest for a bike shop that could swap out my front crank set was finally successful and I am having lunch at a mediocre restaurant while I wait.

The beach at Arbroath

... Where I am in the search of lunch and another bike shop to see if I can get a gel cover for my seat. Wowie owie!

It has been known to rain

No scenic photos for this entry since it has been pouring on me for hours. At least I was dressed for it. I made it to a rather dull caravan park and after setting up my tent I am sitting in the TV room waiting for my camera battery to charge and hoping to dry off a bit.

Tay Road Bridge

Tentsmuir Beach

The cement blocks are tank barricades from WW2.

A good start

As I expected I am much stronger today though I have a truly painful posterior. It should be a pretty ride through forest and near the sea.

The second day always kicks my ass

So here am in a campground that a mere hour ago housed no one but me and i am now surrounded by a large party of talkative elderly Germans who want to tell me all about the history of the German-Polish border. I am utterly exhausted and am hiding in my tent. I managed 25 miles today though I admit to walking all but the gentlest hills. I spent most of this time pondering what possessions I could mail home. I will feel a lot better tomorrow and it will thankfully be a day of few hills.

First up close look at Scottish sides

No wonder everyone hates this town

Elise warned me Glenrothes was not pretty. This is certainly an ugly cycle bridge to go up with a fully laden bike!

Slightly embarrassing but cozy

Though the guide books rave about wild camping under Scottish open access laws there were no inviting fields to be found on my first day's ride. Thus I find myself gratefully encamped in Hazel and David's small yard. They generously made me tea and served me scones with raspberry jam.

Coming into Kirkcaldy

No kidding

Aberdour castle

A Scottish wedding.

Once more into the breach

Once again a mechanic has bemoaned my mismatched chainrings. This repair will hold for a while but the mechanic called ahead to see if new parts will bad available in Aberdeen. In the meantime I am on the lovely coastal path.

And the derailleur busts again

From the interior of Sandy Wallace Cycles just over the Queensferry Bridge.